Ignition barrel jammed after service

[veedubgub]

Thanks again both this is all really useful info.

@dan@biali thats my exact year and engine

Would you guys say this is something worth attempting at home if you're fairly handy?

Looking at the videos on YouTube it seems a fairly easy (albeit a bit time consuming) process to strip the parts and replace bits.



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[dan@biali]

It doesn't look too tricky. Issue is finding the fault without just replacing everything! Someone with experience would know the faulty part when they saw it. I haven't found a Caddy specific clip on youtube either, they're all Touran or Golf.

On that parts image, our barrel seems to be bolted in from underneath with a 1 time use shear bolt N905 845 02 (again, I'm assuming yours is 2009) that you'll need to replace. Good news is thats a lot easier than the security bolt on the top design used in the Golf where you have to mess about getting them out.

*edit Those shear bolts are the potential pain to sort out whether they're in the top or bottom. The head is designed to snap off once installed so there's nothing to turn to remove them. There are a few videos where they show how to get them out if necessary.

[veedubgub]

It doesn't look too tricky. Issue is finding the fault without just replacing everything

Yes thats the problem. Im guessing from some of the videos that if something has failed in the cylinder housing it might be fairly obvious as a few vids ive seen they magage to remove bits of metal debris and fix it without even replaceing the cylinder casting, similar to the video you linked.
I think id probaly just replace it any case if that turns out to be the problem

Other parts like the switch etc will probably be more tricky to diagnose for a first timer with these parts

Good news is thats a lot easier than the security bolt on the top design used in the Golf where you have to mess about getting them out.

*edit Those shear bolts are the potential pain to sort out whether they're in the top or bottom. The head is designed to snap off once installed so there's nothing to turn to remove them. There are a few videos where they show how to get them out if necessary.

Yes id probably use a dremel to try and cut a slot, or drill them and use an easy out depending on the amount of access available.

Seen a few good ones where they use a sharp chisel like a drift to gently tap the bolt in the reverse direction until it can be undone by hand



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[veedubgub]

Right so ive got the vehicle towed home and will strip it myself when i get time

@dan@biali

Do you have the part numbers for items #10, #22, #13, #14 and asembly #11?

not sure which part(s) ill need just yet.
Also what is item#20?

Apart from the switch the switch that @Scoobysrt posted a link to, are all the parts you posted in the image are only available from a vw dealer?




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[Doc]

I think you are going to need only parts 12 and 22, the others should be salvageable from your ignition.
I would replace part 10 just as they do fail and while you're in there it'll be no harm to change it.
Part 14 is the lock which will match your key. If you had to buy a new one, that would be special order from VW and take a few weeks as it would need to be manufactured to suit your key.

[Scoobysrt]

You can quite easily repin a lick to suit your key, if I can find one in my scrap bin I'll do a guide.

Just start stripping it and go from there, the lock comes out quick easily leaving the lock surround and swutchnin place, you can then use a screwdriver or long nose pliers (depending which version of lock it is) to turn the switch and see if thats failed or not, the lock in your hand can be turned with the key to see if it's that.

Leave drilling out the snap off bolt bracket to the last resort, in the past I've drilled those out and used a normal bolt straight through with nylon nut to secure back on.

[dan@biali]

#11 is the kit which includes switch #10 and the housing #22. I don't think you can get #22 on its own as it doesn't show separate part number and refers you back to #11.

#11 1K0 905 841 about £106

#13 1K0 953 527 D is described as locking piece solenoid valve and is about £28

#20 is the insert for the trim around the steering wheel so you have the hole for the key to go through. If yours is all scratched up its only £3 for a new one 2K0 905 869 9B9

2x shear bolts N 905 845 02 £1.30 each

#14 107 905 855 CF is the lock barrel and as Doc says, will be keyed to your vehicle and could take a few weeks to arrive

*just to confirm, I don't work for VW, I just have a subscription to be able to view the parts database. When ordering parts, please use your chassis number to confirm these are correct for your vehicle.

[veedubgub]

Thanks again for all the replies and info.

@Scoobysrt
One other question about dismantling the lock barrel #14 from the housing.

You need to line up the small hole on the edge of the lock barrel with the dot on the plastic surround in order to insert a thin metal object that allows you to release the barrel retaining catch and pull the barrel from the housing.
What do you do if your not able to turn the key far enough to align the hole with the dot?
Just had a quick look and thats the first thing ill need to get around somehow.

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[Doc]

That's where I reckon will need to drill like in the YouTube video to get the key turned to release the lock.

[dan@biali]

Thats what I thought too. If you watch a couple of them they drill out where there's a plastic cap and that releases the mechanism.

[Scoobysrt]

Yes, unfortunatley you need to drill so you can press the lever/tab down, on things like Peugeots I've managed to get a shim down to depress the tab but I don't recollect doing it on a vw but it might be worth trying.

Does the steering wheel rock right to left ok without hinderence? Ie steering lock definitely off?

I totally forgot to look for that lock im sorry, I know where I have one on a shelf but I think it's a passant one, I'll take some pics tomorrow it should be simular.

The only thing I can think of is the switch is damaged or the steering lock is sticking why the lock won't turn, a gentle tapping with a plastic mallet (watch the airbag) on the lock surround with the cowling off of course, may let you turn the key more.
Sometimes the peg that retracts the steering lock block wears and it jams the bit up but it's rare in my experience.

[Scoobysrt]

I'm wondering if the garage has rammed the wrong key in and damaged the wafers, if they forced it back and forth it would allow the right key to turn a bit but not to first position.
If you get the lock out and the key still doesn't turn without the switch on send it to me and I'll strip it, photo it, do a report on it and send it back working if possible foc.

[veedubgub]

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Does the steering wheel rock right to left ok without hinderence? Ie steering lock definitely off?

Yes as long as the key is turned and held as far to the right as possible before it jams them the steering wheel can be turned left to right with no obstruction.
It i let go of the key, it springs back a little but i can still turn the steering wheel both directions but i can hear a notchy clicking sound as i turn it in in either direction.

.
I totally forgot to look for that lock im sorry, I know where I have one on a shelf but I think it's a passant one, I'll take some pics tomorrow it should be simular.

No worries and thanks

If you get the lock out and the key still doesn't turn without the switch on send it to me and I'll strip it, photo it, do a report on it and send it back working if possible foc.

Much appreciated, will do.

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[idallow]

The same exact thing happened to my sons caddy a couple of months back

It’s the actual steering lock housing that has failed, I ordered one of ebay with the switch for £40

It took us just over an hour to get the lock barrel out and then remove the actual steering lock from the column, as others have said there are plenty of you tube how tos

It is very common on golfs and caddy’s my sons went without warning and the RAC ahead to recover him , with the non VW part a garage should charge you around £200 all in

HTH

[veedubgub]

Update

So ive managed to strip everything down without having to drill into the housing and have removed the coded cylinder.
The cylinder itself is a little bit notchy when you first start to turn it using the original key, you have to make sure the key is fully pressed in and can feel a little resistance/notch on initial turn but it rotates freely after that.
When i tried with the spare key the rotates freely with no resistance/notchiness.


I went on to remove the internals from the housing and found what seems to be the offending bit of debris and where it broke off from inside of the casting



Also a twisted up spring and a hollow cylinder where sitting loose at the bottom of the housing. I think these are part of that push rod assembly that depress the catch for the steering lock but not sure where exactly the order in which they're assembled, (seems like the spring sits inside the cylinder) anyone know where/how these are assembled?

Other questions
re the coded lock cylinder, is there anything i can use to try and lubricate it with to reduce the initial notchiness im getting with the old key. Was thinking about graphite powder.
Might a new key help?
Or does it sound like the cylinder is on the way out?

Lock housing,
With that broken piece removed im wondering if i might i be able to salvage the parts ive got.
Or should i just replace it with new?

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