CADDY2K.com

This is insanely tidy, fair play to you for all the time and effort you've put into this. You deserve a job at sortimo/festool.

Incredible job. Looks high end/off the shelf. Love all the details.

About the aluminium trims you wanted to bend. I suspect you could probably carefully just bend them being that its such a gentle arc you need.

Another option is to kerf/relief cut the inside part of the extrusion. I've done a doodle to illustrate the point but I suspect its a lot of work and maybe a slightly untidy [for you] finish.



And the other option I can think of aside from heating them is to get someone with a shrinker to squeeze the inside part of the profile which has the effect of shrinking the metal and gently curving it, or putting it through a tube bender although I suspect that will crush the profile unless they use a mandrel.

Might be some useful stuff in here:

http://www.metalgeek.com/archives/2005/05/01/000047.php

Nice workmanship there going to use/take inspiration from that for my rear I think

You must have spent a few quid on those festool boxes but very very smart tho. I’ve got the dewalt toughsystem boxes


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Top top work as usual so much time and effort gone into this, love it

Thanks guys.
My old build is currently in my garage if anyone wants to give me a few beer tokens for it?

Fantastic quality and eye for detail so feel a bit stupid asking about something you haven't made yourself

The sealant tube holder on your rear door - does it rattle with the gun in it?
I was about to order one for myself but decided against it as the smallest rattle drives me insane

It did rattle, but I found when slamming the door, the kinetic energy of the gun, especially when a fullish tube was in it, and the bar was extended, it was flying forward, and pulling out the trim clips of the panel.
A small bungee around the top holder, and hook the bar under it cured this, and the rattle.

Thanks v much, will order one

tommyzooom wrote: ↑Wed Jan 17, 2018 9:48 pm I removed everything from a donor A3, so came away with all the oem wiring, bolts, and the cover.

Love the way @tommyzoom casually says that. I just spent 4 hours at a breakers removing the dash and heater box from an A3 to be able to remove the loom Happy enough though got everything I need for £30

Can anyone confirm that this wiring information is correct for a facelift Caddy. The donor wiring seemed to go indirectly to the back of the heater control panel.

The heater has a direct connection to the comfort CAN bus.
The nearest location of the bus would be the Data bus diagnostic interface, the module is the black box with the red plug in it, unwrap the loom and look for the orange/green and orange/brown wires that are twisted together, cut the repair wire in half and splice one cut end to each of the wires identified above. Attach to the other end to the connector plug as follows;
Pin 1 to orange/green
Pin 2 to orange/brown
Plug the connector into the heater

TIA

Lol, when I removed mine, the breaker said the heater box was of no value, so I put a hammer through it to get at the wires above it
That sounds about right, but I didn't go back to the canbus module. You'll pick up two canbus wires near the heater controls. (If you have AC)

Thanks mate, so as long as I stick to the colours I can tap in anywhere
Always remember with me that nothing is foolproof enough to foil a sufficiently talented fool

I fInally got round to making a MFT style worktop, to match my cushion, to complete my racking.





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class work as always andrew

I've just read the whole thread and just wanted to say, great looking van and you've got an exceptional eye for details. Great work!
/Fredrik

Very nice work Andrew

What door sill protectors did you use?