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Hi All,

I am struggling to purchase sliding door locks. Well, to be precise: I'm struggling to purchase the exact same P/N what I had in my car. Earlier I bought a pair of locks, those didn't even work at all despite the vendor was clearly static this must work. Luckily I fitted the locks in front of the shop, I could call them out and show these aren't working, got my money back.
Today I bought a slightly different P/N, which is working and not working at the same time.
When I open with the remote, it opens. When I try to lock it, it won't even do a slightest effort. Nothing. The seller says it functions well, what I believe, I just really hope there's a way I could manipulate the wiring to make it work. I'm hoping all I'd be losing is the safety lock function. My initial lock is supporting that for sure, the P/N for that is: 2K0 843 653 S. The one I purchased today: 2K0 843 653 N.
Regarding the P/N ending with "S" - I've found clear info saying that's for safety lock feature locks. Does anyone know what P/N enging with "N" showing? Is it "no safety"?
Any shared experiences about these P/N compatibilities would be greatly appreciated! Thanks!

I had to re-wire the part ending with "N". Apart from that, it works perfect. Cable colour coding was the same in both parts, only wiring order was different in the connector.

I am hunting for a right hand side sliding door lock, with not much luck. I've been sold a LH one without part number sticker recently, noticed the difference when tried to install. Now I have two LH locks so if anyone knows source for a RH side lock, please don't hesitate sharing with me. Or, if anyone has experience on mounting the screw nuts in the housing, would also appreciate if you could share if you could press those nuts in the mounting holes successfully.
Thanks!

Both sides replaced.

What I've learnt from this is: when a door lock makes noise like gears are grinding on each other, it's not necessarily that. I've bought a gear repair kit, but when opened the lock housing realised gears were perfect. The central locking motor was grinding on a broken part of the body of the lock, ironically which was supposed to hold the motor of the lock's shaft at place. That bit broke off on both sides. Non-repairable, at least I don't know how to re-attach a small plastic part back to plastic.
I also learnt that many similar P/Ns will work, only the last 1 or 2 characters will differ.
I also learnt that one of the used locks I've purchased for an unknown reason is not pulling the cable enough to release the latch, so the cable had to be shortened. Interestingly this only affected the door handle operated from the inside but not the external one. It seemed like the external handle had enough travel to pull but not the internal. 3mm shortening solved this issue. Still don't really understand how and why this is possible with a fully functioning lock.

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Fantastic info about the door locks.
My passenger side is also making that grinding noise.

I hope its just the gear for you, but please don't buy anything before you purchase spare parts. Disassemble first, inspect for fault and then buy gears if that's the issue. It might be just me being stupid and buying stuff in advance

Let me know if you need any info and you think I might be able to assist.

For sure and thank you very much for the help.

If you know the type of plastic they can be joined, if you have ABS type like the bulkhead if you can get MEK liquid might need to google it, cut up the abs into small prices and place in a jam jar pour MEK over it leave for a bit it will go like putty and is spreadable, don’t put this in a slice of bread kids won’t go down well you build up bits with it, once the MEK evaporates the sludge will go hard.

That's a lot of "if"-s
However the only solution that makes sense. Buying a complete new lock unit just for that is nonsense!

Thanks for sharing the process and idea.

Have a good one volks!

Sure is a lot of if’s but I have used it when cutting down a bulk head and trimmed it back too far, saves getting the soldering iron out

Yeah we use mek to remove ink at work, from polyethylene. I used some to clean my acrylic framed safety glasses...it dissolved the frame. Wasn't a good look.